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The cool, moist climate of the far north provides ideal conditions
for peat which forms from the semi-decomposed remains of plant
species, particularly bog mosses. Over thousands of years, layer
upon layer of peat has been laid down forming deposits up to
several meters deep.
The lie of the land has also played its part in the formation of
peat. In the east of the region, the land is flat and gently
sloping with underlying granites, granulites, schists and Old Red
sandstone. Although much of this area is covered by peat, the
north eastern side of Caithness now consists of intensively
managed farmland. Further west, the area is made up almost
entirely of granulites and schists. As in Caithness, much of the
land is flat and gently sloping. Where mountains occur, Ben Armine,
Ben Klibreck, Ben Griam, Ben Loyal and Ben Hope) they tend to be
surrounded by large expanses of flat and gently sloping land. A
climb to the top of any of these hills will reveal a watery world
consisting of thousands of small pools and larger lochs
Peat has been used as fuel for hundreds of years. Each year, during
May and June, peat is cut from peat banks using traditional tools
and left to dry. Once dried, the peats are gathered together and
carried to the side of the road for uplifting. Until the advent of
oil and gas central heating, peat cutting was widespread
throughout the area. Despite a reduction in peat cutting, peat
stacks can still be seen. Recently, there has been a shift toward
machine cutting of peat for domestic use.
Peat is also burnt as
part of the malting process in the production of whisky. The
peatiness of the water adds to the characteristic flavour of
whisky.
There are two distilleries in the area at Brora (Clynelish) and at
Wick (Pultneytown).
Out and about in the Peatlands - suggested routes.
A9: Latheron to Thurso - double track road, 23 miles, 45 minutes.
On a clear day, nobody driving north along the A9 Causeymire can
fail to be impressed by the vast expanse of peatlands stretching
far out to the west.
The only discernible hills are Morven (706m)
and Scaraben (626m) to the south west and Ben Alisky (348m), 13 km
to the west. Despite the nature of the land, people have lived
here for thousands ofyears. At Loch Rangag there is a broch and on
the south side of loch Stemster there are some standing stones.
Further up the road at Halsary, there is evidence of man's more
recent activity. Here, vast areas of peat are being stripped away and shipped to Sweden for use in peat
fuelled power stations.
At Thurso, there is a Tourist Information Centre and a local
heritage museum.
BS65: Dunnet to Dunnet Head - single track road, 5 miles, 20
minutes
No trip to the area is complete without a visit to Dunnet
head, the most northerly point of the British mainland. At the end
of the road, weather permitting, you can see Hoy and South
Ronaldsay and the entire north coast of Scotland including Strathy
lighthouse some 40km to the west.
You will also be treated to a
panoramic view of the Dunnet peatlands, where peat has been cut
for years. This is a great place to see seabirds (fulmar, gannet,
puffin, great skua and arctic skua) and peatland birds such as the
golden plover.
At Dunnet Bay, there is an excellent visitor centre with a variety
of displays on the wildlife of the area. The centre is also a base
for the ranger service.
You might also like to visit Mary-Ann's
Cottage at Dunnet where a number of traditional peat cutting tools
are on display.
AS97: Helmsdale to Melvich - single track road, 39 miles, 1.5
hours
The small village of Helmsdale has a Tourist Information
Centre and is home to the Timespan Heritage Centre (open April to
October). This is an excellent centre to aquaint yourself with
past and present life in the far north of Scotland. Timespan also
boasts a fine art gallery featuring works by International and
local artists.
The single track road from Helmsdale to Melvich takes you to the
heart of the peatlands. After leaving Strath Kildonan at Baile on
Or (the scene of Scotland's last goldrush in 1869), the landscape
opens up with wonderful views of Ben Armine (704m) and Ben
Klibreck (961m) to the west and the Ben Griams to the north. Here
you may see some red deer close to the road, particularly during
the spring and early summer.
At this time of year the River
Helmsdale is also home to many anglers striving to catch salmon.
Further north, between Kinbrace and Forsinard, there is another
treat in store. On the west side of the road, to the north of Loch
An Ruathair, you will see a small area of pools (dubh lochans)
which are such a unique feature of the peatlands. If you are
lucky, you may catch a glimpse of a red-throated diver or perhaps
a greenshank.
At Forsinard, there is a visitor centre and a nature reserve owned
by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. Here you can go
on guided walks or walk around the Dubh Lochan Trail. A trail
leaflet provides an introduction to the plants, birds and small
creatures likely to be encountered on the trail.
In the visitor
centre, open 7 days a week between April and September, live
pictures of a hen harrier nest are displayed on a large screen.
The centre is staffed between May and July. For further
information about guided walks phone 01641 571 225.
As you leave
Forsinard, watch out for golden plover and dunlin feeding on the
improved farmland close to the road. The road now follows the
River Halladale to the point at which it reaches the sea at
Melvich.
Merlin, hen harrier, buzzard and short-eared owl hunt
over the heathery slopes of the strath. Approaching the coast, the
land gradually changes to more fertile farmland.
The Peatlands by train
There is a regular train service from Inverness to Wick and Thurso.
Leaving from Invemess, the train travels round the Beauly,
Cromarty and Dornoch Firths and then on through the fertile
farmland of southeast Sutherland. At Helmsdale, the train leaves
the coast and follows the River Helmsdale into the heart of the
peatlands.
From here, you are treated to a watery world of rivers,
lochs and peatland. Through your window, you may see red deer,
buzzard or even greylag geese feeding on the fertile flood plain
of the River Helmsdale. Beyond Kinbrace, the railway passes along
the edge of Loch An Ruathair and on through the peatlands.
At
Forsinard, the old railway station has been converted into a
visitor centre by the RSPB. The train now turns sharply to cross
the blanket bogs of Caithness. Interspersed with wide open areas
of unspoilt peatland are large blocks of forestry planted in the
1980s. Here, you may see short-eared owl, hen harrier, merlin or
even golden eagle as they hunt over the peatland and trees.
You
will also notice mile upon mile of snow fence running parallel to
the railway line - a clear indication of the severity of winter
weather conditions in the area. Look out for the remote railway
station at Altnabreac and the nearby Victorian shooting lodge at
Loch Dubh. At Georgemas Junction, the train leaves the peatlands
to cross the fertile farmland around Thurso and Wick.
For details
of train times phone SCOTRAIL (0345 484 950)
Geology
Caithness has a wealth of geological sites including a number of
locations where fossil fish were first recorded. The fish date
back about 380 million years ago in the Devonian geological period
of geological time when the land destined to eventually become
Scotland lay about 20" S of the equator and enjoyed a
generally warm and dry climate. One of the best sites to look for
fossil fish is Achanarras Quarry near Spittal.
Permits to collect
fossil fish can be obtained from the Scottish Natural Heritage
office in Golspie.
Active Caithness
Caithness comes as a surprise to visitors travelling through the
Highlands: at first glance we appear to have nothing but vast,
open moorland and rolling farmland, in sharp contrast to the
mountainous lands further south and west. But on closer inspection
the Caithness landscape offers dramatic contrasts. The ideal
combination of sea, river, loch, moor, path, road and hill means
that Caithness offers a remarkable range of activities throughout
the year.
The flat, open landscape, with its gently rolling hills,
is ideal walking and cycling country: we have a network of quiet
country roads and forestry tracks where those seeking peace and
quiet may walk, cycle or indeed horse-ride amidst rich wildlife
and a landscape bearing evidence of man's presence over thousands
of years.
Climbing one of the area's hills offers amazing views
across the peatlands, the north mainland and the Orkney Islands.
Around the coast there are also many opportunities to walk and
view huge bird colonies, spectacular rock formations, and the
islands of the Pentland Firth.
The towering cliffs of the east and
north coasts offer ideal nesting sites for vast colonies of
sea-birds. The dizzying combination of spectacular cliffs and the
noise and smells of our massive colonies are an experience to be
remembered.
As well as the cliffs Caithness has some magnificent beaches that
offer outstanding surfing, and on other parts of the coast away
from the sheer cliffs you might stumble across one of the many
little harbours -modern visitors to the small harbour of Dunbeath
will be amazed to learn that this picturesque location was home to
76 boats in 1838, employing up to 3,000 people!
A walk up the
sheltered strath (valley) of Dunbeath offers one of the few areas
of woodland this far north.
Historic Caithness
Caithness was once a part of the Viking empire, which stretched
across the northern countries of Europe as far as North America.
Our Viking ancestors arrived here in the 9th century, and much of Caithness was ruled by the Norsemen
until the 13" century.
Their impressive strongholds line the Caithness coastline to this
day - the Castle of Old Wick being a particularly stirring
example.
With the decline of Norse power in Caithness came the arrival of
Scottish noblemen, such as the powerfUl Sinclair family, which was
granted the Earldom of Caithness in 1455. Feuds were common
between powerful families or "clans" such as the
Sutherlands, Sinclairs, Gunns, Keiths, Mowats and Mackays. Indeed
one of the last clan battles on Scottish soil was fought near Wick
in 1680, between the Sinclairs and the Campbells.
The placenames of Caithness offer a good guide to our distinctive
heritage: look out for particular words or endings which indicate
gaelic or Norse origins. Many villages and farm names end in
"-ster' (Lybster, Scrabster etc) which means farm or steading
in Old Norse. Many places also begin with "ach" (Achalone,
Achnavast etc) which comes from the Gaelic word "achadh"
or "field".
Wick and Thurso
The two main towns in Caithness have distinguished histories
dating back to their origins as Viking settlements. By the Middle
Ages Thurso was an important sea port, with strong European
trading links (one of our main shopping areas is called Rotterdam
Street).
Wick became a Royal Burgh in 1589, and by the 19"
century was the most important herring fishing port in Europe.
 The
remarkable story of the "herring boom"
comes alive at
Wick
Heritage Centre, and tells of the years in which the
Caithness coastline teemed with boats and people, when tiny
harbours sprang up in apparently wild and inaccessible places.
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